If you’ve ever wondered why some handmade garments look beautifully crisp and structured while others fall a little flat, the answer is often interfacing.

It’s one of those sewing supplies that doesn’t get the spotlight—but it quietly does a lot of the heavy lifting.

In this guide, we’re breaking down what interfacing is, when to use it, and how to choose the right one—featuring the Vlieseline (Vilene) interfacings we stock and love here at Beyond the Pink Door.


What is interfacing?

Interfacing is a layer of fabric (often fusible) that you apply to the wrong side of your main fabric to:

  • Add structure
  • Prevent stretching
  • Support seams and edges
  • Help your garment hold its shape over time

Think of it as the hidden framework behind a well-made garment.


Fusible vs Sew-In (and why we mostly love fusible)

Most modern sewing uses fusible interfacing, which has a heat-activated adhesive. You simply press it onto your fabric with an iron.

All of the Vilene interfacings we stock are fusible, making them quick, reliable, and beginner-friendly.


Choosing the right interfacing (this is the key bit!)

The golden rule:

👉 Match the weight and behaviour of your interfacing to your fabric

Too heavy? Your fabric becomes stiff and unnatural.
Too light? It won’t do its job.

Let’s walk through the ones you’ll find in the shop and exactly where you’d use them.


Lightweight interfacings (for delicate fabrics)

Vlieseline H180

Your go-to for lightweight fabrics. Available in both Black & White

Best for:

  • Viscose
  • Cotton lawn
  • Lightweight linen
  • Blouses and dresses

Use it for:

  • Facings
  • Collars
  • Cuffs

It adds just enough support without changing the drape of your fabric.


Woven interfacings (the dream for dressmaking)

Woven interfacings behave like fabric—they have a grainline—so they move naturally with your garment.

Vlieseline G700

One of the most popular dressmaking interfacings (and for good reason). Available in both Black & White

Best for:

  • Cotton
  • Linen
  • Light to medium weight fabrics

Use it for:

  • Waistbands
  • Collars
  • Structured facings

If you’re unsure what to choose, G700 is a very safe bet.


Vlieseline G710

A lighter, softer alternative to G700. Available in both Black & White

Best for:

  • Lightweight fabrics where G700 would feel too heavy

Use it for:

  • Delicate collars
  • Blouses
  • Lightweight facings

Stretch interfacings (don’t skip these!)

When working with stretch fabrics, you need interfacing that moves with the fabric—otherwise you’ll lose that stretch.

Vlieseline H609

Soft and flexible with gentle stretch. Available in both Black & White

Best for:

  • Jersey
  • Lightweight knits

Use it for:

  • Necklines
  • Shoulder seams
  • Light stabilising

Specialty interfacing (for bags & structure)

Vlieseline Style Vil

This is where things get fun.

Style Vil is a foam interfacing that adds body, volume, and that professional finish.

Best for:

  • Bags
  • Accessories
  • Structured projects

Use it for:

  • Tote bags
  • Sling bags
  • Laptop sleeves

If you’ve ever wondered how handmade bags get that “shop-bought” look—this is often the secret.


Vlieseline H630

H630 is a low-loft fusible fleece designed to add soft padding rather than structure.

Best for:

  • Bags and accessories
  • Quilted projects
  • Home décor

Use it for:

  • Tote bags and pouches
  • Cushion covers
  • Lightly padded garments

It gives your projects a soft, cushioned feel with gentle body—perfect when you want shape without stiffness.


Top tips for success

  • Always test first on a scrap
  • Cut interfacing on the same grain as your fabric (especially woven types)
  • Use a pressing cloth to protect delicate fabrics
  • Press, don’t iron (no dragging!)
  • Let it cool completely before moving it

Final thoughts

Interfacing might not be the most exciting part of sewing—but it’s one of the most important.

Choosing the right one can take your makes from homemade to beautifully finished.

If you’re ever unsure which to use, start with G700 for wovens or H180 for lighter fabrics—and build from there.

And of course, if you need help choosing, we’re always here to guide you 💗

 

Andrea Parry