Cotton spandex jersey, also known as cotton elastane jersey, cotton Lycra jersey, or simply cotton jersey is one of the most popular knit fabrics for comfortable everyday clothing.
It combines the softness and breathability of cotton with a small amount of elastane, giving the fabric extra stretch and excellent recovery. That means it moves comfortably with the body but springs back into shape rather than becoming baggy.
Most cotton spandex jerseys contain around 90–95% cotton and 5–10% elastane, although the exact composition can vary.
Unlike woven fabrics, jersey is a knit, so it naturally stretches. The spandex increases that stretch and helps the fabric spring back instead of becoming baggy.
What can you sew with cotton jersey?
It’s a really versatile fabric and works beautifully for:
- T-shirts and fitted tops
- Dresses
- Leggings in heavier weights
- Children’s clothing
- Pyjamas and loungewear
- Bodysuits
- Baby clothing and accessories
It’s soft against the skin, breathable, easy to wear and generally straightforward to care for.
Tips for sewing cotton jersey
Use the right needle
A ballpoint or stretch needle is best. A 75/11 or 80/12 ballpoint needle will suit most jerseys, while a stretch needle can be useful for fabrics with a higher elastane content or if you experience skipped stitches.
Choose a stretch-friendly stitch
Because jersey stretches, a standard straight stitch sewn with regular thread can sometimes pop when the garment is worn.
Good options include a narrow zigzag, lightning/stretch stitch, triple stretch stitch or an overlocker.
For hems, you can use a twin needle, coverstitch machine or zigzag stitch.
If you are using Gutermann Maraflex thread, you can use a straight stitch for many seams and hems because the thread itself has built-in stretch. A slightly longer stitch length usually works well, and you may find that reducing the tension helps too. Every machine is different, so always test on a scrap first.
Don’t stretch the fabric as you sew
Guide the fabric gently and let the machine feed it through naturally. Pulling the jersey can lead to stretched or wavy seams.
If your machine allows you to adjust the presser foot pressure, reducing it slightly can also help prevent the fabric from stretching as it feeds.
Make hemming easier
Vlieseline Stretchfix T30 is really useful for creating neat jersey hems. It helps hold the folded hem securely in place before stitching and can reduce stretching or waviness.
Press rather than iron
Use a medium heat with steam and lift the iron up and down rather than sliding it across the fabric. This helps avoid distorting the knit. A pressing cloth is useful if you’re unsure.
Always pre-wash
Cotton jersey can shrink, so wash and dry your fabric in the same way you plan to care for the finished garment before cutting.
Once you get used to its stretch, cotton jersey is a wonderfully forgiving and practical fabric to sew with — comfortable to wear, easy to style and perfect for everyday handmade wardrobes.
