Stretch Washed 6 Wale Corduroy | Dusty Blue

Corduroy is a lovely fabric to sew with, but its distinctive raised pile means there are a few things worth keeping in mind. - Recommended needle: Use a universal needle, size 80/12 or 90/14, depending on the number of layers and thickness of seams. A stretch needle may be helpful if you experience skipped stitches. - Cutting: Corduroy has a nap, so always cut your pattern pieces in the same direction. Running your hand along the fabric will help you identify the direction of the pile. - Nap direction: Cutting with the pile running upwards often creates a richer, deeper colour, while cutting downwards can give a slightly lighter appearance. Either is fine, but consistency is important. - Pattern placement: The raised wales should generally run vertically down the garment. Check that the direction of stretch works with your chosen pattern. - Stitching: A regular straight stitch of approximately 2.5–3mm is a good starting point. The fabric has some stretch, so use a narrow zigzag or stretch-compatible stitch where seam flexibility is required. - Pressing: Always press from the wrong side on a soft towel or needle board to avoid crushing the raised pile. Use gentle steam and avoid applying too much pressure. - Seam finishing: Finish raw edges using an overlocker or zigzag stitch to help prevent fraying. - Topstitching: Slightly longer stitches can give a lovely finish to pockets, waistbands and seams. - Bulk: Trim and grade seam allowances where necessary, particularly around waistbands, collars and pockets. - Prewashing: Prewash before cutting to allow for any shrinkage. A little sewing tip: When sewing corduroy, a walking foot can be particularly useful for preventing the layers from shifting against one another. It's also worth using a slightly longer stitch when topstitching to help the stitches sit neatly amongst the raised ribs.